1. Cull horses into smaller areas and rotate frequently.
2. Schedule a rotation management program that gives pastures enough time to regenerate (depends on area, time of year, number of horses, water, etc.).
3. Mow pastures after moving horses off an area or follow them with livestock (such as cows) that can help manage parasite issues and/or eat what horses will leave.
4. Use salt instead of pesticides to control unwanted plants (such as growth under an electric fence wire, burdocks or thistles). This will take more time but can be as effective without the potential harm to horses and the environment. Plus, it can be administered to paddocks being currently grazed. It’s also inexpensive in 50 pound bags.
5. Break up manure piles to kill worms that may be ingested later.
6. Build gates between paddocks to make transfer to new areas quicker and easier.
7. Use herd leaders to help move horse groups to other pastures. If you grab one of the herd leaders (this works best if you can pair her with number two as you begin the migration) to encourage the rest of the herd to follow. This isn’t necessarily the horse that is hostile to the herd to get first dibs on feed or water. Watch the herd to see who they follow. It’s usually a kind mare that doesn’t command respect, but is chosen due to confidence and operatives with seeming indifference.
8. Supply shelter from sun, wind, bugs and cold. There are many affordable run-in sheds available for purchase. We’ve found Wood Tex (www.woodtex.com) to be exceptional on the quality, price and customer service fronts. In fact, we can’t build a shelter for the price of their delivered units. If you’re building and have an aggressive horse in the herd, an L-shaped shelter works best.
9. Clean out shelters at least daily. Depending on the usage, bedding may be necessary.
10. Pick herds to help school young horses. Do you have an arrogant and aggressiveyoung colt that bullies other horses (or humans)? Turn him out with a pregnant mare (or two) for a quick and lasting attitude adjustment. Are you challenged with a young alpha filly that’s torturing and dominating elderly mares? Kick her out with an established younger herd with an established hierarchy. Have a timid or insecure horse? Find a kind mare (or gelding) they can spend time with one-on-one to bond with and build their confidence. Struggling with an aggressive and violent mare that beats the daylights out of other mares she’s introduced to? If you’re determined to attempt socializing her (we go by the two strikes rule with hostile horses – then they’re permanently solo), try putting a young gelding in an adjacent stall first and if they bond, see if pasture companionship works . Watch carefully for signs of aggression and remove the boy if you have time, but don’t get between the two once a battle ensues.
11. Ensure horses have clean water at all times.
12. Watch the horses’ weight. Heavy horses can be prone to more problems than skinny ones. Limit grazing for obese horses and supplement as needed with those that are harder keepers.
13. Stay current on vaccinations. In addition to the standard 4-ways (or 5-ways), we also add West Nile and Rabies. Issues are often geographically-based, so it makes sense to keep apprised of area concerns.
14. Make salt and/or a mineral block available.
15. Check each horse daily for abrasions, hoof problems (pick them up to make sure nothing is lodged in the foot and/or the health of the frog and sole is good), eye issues, filling in legs and general health and attitude.

1. Give him time to gain his senses and bond with mom prior to forcing training (or desensitization) on him. Of course, birthing emergencies require immediate attention, but if the birth is normal (most are) there should be little need to control the foal prior to IgG bloodwork and the initial foal exam unless he needs help standing to nurse.
2. Move slowly when entering the stall, approaching him in the pasture or attempting to get near him.
3. Let him get comfortable with you by being patient, quiet and responsive to his concerns instead of tackling and restraining him when you enter to the stall to work on or with him.
4. Spend time giving attention to the mare while he watches how she trusts you and enjoys your contact.
5. Find a spot he likes to be rubbed and reward him by scratching or petting that area when he approaches you and/or when he responds to a request.
6. Don’t put yourself between the mare and the foal during the first few days of his life. This will not only likely cause both to panic, reducing trust, but can also get you hurt.
7. If the mare is overly protective or busy about herding the foal (this is common with maiden mares), tie her to the wall as you calmly encourage the foal to come check you out (foals are naturally curious – most will approach on their own if you’re not in a big hurry).
8. Don’t try to chase, herd or corner the foal – instead, back off when he expresses fear and let him know you are willing to take the time necessary for him to be comfortable with your approach.
9. Get lower by squatting or sitting in a corner of the stall to be less threatening. Most foals will have their nose in your face within a few minutes if you’re still and at their level.
10. Calmly stroke the foal (in the direction of the hair) once he’s comfortable enough with you approaching and interacting. At this point, you should be able to curl your arm around his chest to stabilize him for a few moments as you demonstrate your touch will not hurt him.
11. Take your time about forcing early training on him. While there are a few immediate tasks necessary for the health of the foal, if you wait until your baby indicates he’s ready to interact with you as a trusted guide, you’ll set the stage for a partnership in the future that is built on trust and mutual respect.
12. Be the purveyor of fun or relief before you jump in as taskmaster. Little things like giving him the opportunity to kick his heels up during pasture time or providing relief from the bugs with barn shelter can be great ways to encourage the foal to appreciate and trust you.
13. Use the mare to help direct the foal in a way that puts him near you. Many mares will herd their foals to walk in front of them, which provides a great opportunity for you to be beside the foal for early trips to and from the pasture in a non-threatening manner. With sick foals, many moms will know (provided you’ve established a trusting relationship with the mare) you are trying to help. Let her assist and you might be amazed at how much she’ll do to restrain and/or discipline to foal to be still.
14. Be happy when you spend time with the foal. Horses can sense when you’re angry, afraid or upset and even if the young foal doesn’t immediately pick up on this, the dam will. Get yourself in the right frame of mind prior to interfacing with your baby.
15. Listen. Foals (and their moms) will tell you when they are alarmed by your behavior or receptive to your guidance. Merely showing you are willing and able to hear such communications can go a long way in your effort to build trust.

Some are in a big hurry to accost a foal with training regimens the moment he drops. This may create a compliant equine, but it rarely teaches a baby to view human contact as interesting and engaging – and to enjoy building a trust together that offers a lifetime of opportunities for collaboration. Usually, it’s just a matter of days spent giving the foal the opportunity to choose that means the difference between forcing a conciliatory attitude and building a reciprocal, exciting and special relationship. It’s quicker and easier to dominate and control, but can be a lot more satisfying to include the foal in the conversation. Try it. You might learn something along the way – even if it’s that you decide it takes too much time to let the foal decide when training begins.

Want to bring along a young horse that loves to train so much he nickers when he sees you coming? It’s not that hard if you’re willing to hear the horse. Below are some easy ways to ensure your horse is excited about performing the jobs you request.

1. Keep the sessions short. When starting young horses, 10-15 minutes is plenty. Five minutes is fine too. Pick a lesson they can easily understand, enjoy and accomplish quickly.
2. Hear your horse. Sometimes they don’t want to train. With a young horse, it’s better to recognize this and offer a day off rather than forcing a session when they’re not receptive. Other days, it might be best to choose a simple (or complicated) request as a goal. The more you get to know what your horse is trying tell you and the better you are at reading such cues, the easier it will be to end each day with an accomplishment that makes you both proud.
3. Customize lessons. No two horses are identical (contrary to some of the popular ‘horsemanship methods’ of the day) and offering flexible training approaches that incorporate his proclivities will help your horse appreciate and respect you and his job immensely.
4. Include the horse in the conversation. Too often, trainers (professionals as well as novice experimenters) craft a lesson plan that’s all about them and then wonder why the horse objects. If you let your horse participate in the learning strategy instead of trying to apply formula approaches, you’ll be amazed at how quickly the horse gathers, retains and applies what you’ve requested. Plus, you’ll find you’ve helped create a partnership that’s richer, safer, more rewarding and more fulfilling than you might imagine.
5. Always be confident and clear while recognizing the horse with kindness and understanding. Horses melt when they find a leader and a teacher who sees respect as a two-way street. Sadly, some have interpreted the herd mentality using bossy, aggressive and demanding Alphas as the behavior model. Watch and you’ll see these horses aren’t the leaders – they’re avoided. Leaders of the herd are followed by choice, not according to water and feed pecking order. These are the heralded Alphas.
6. Stand your ground. While combative or aggressive behaviour doesn’t usually encourage a horse to enjoy training, backing down once you encounter an issue often leads to a difficult and obstinate horse that views you as a pushover and/or inappropriate guide. There’s a big difference between unflappable insistence and ‘teaching a horse a lesson.’ If a horse turns into a drama queen over a simple request, keep your cool but make it known that in a battle of wills, you have the staying power to quietly continue asking for cooperation until it happens. Some young horses (particularly strong-willed fillies) will test your mettle to see if they can intimidate you (and if they are successful, your productive training days are probably over).
7. Ask your horse what he likes to do and reward him at the end of the training session with a task he relishes. You might be amazed at what you discover. There’s no right answer to this one as it depends on the horse. Some view the trails with joy; others want to jump; maybe there’s an area they love to be rubbed; it could be time with a special companion; or a grazing place that’s not usually available. Funny thing is, most horses who love to train want to do something they find fun under saddle. Figure out what that is and you’ll have a horse that gets excited about doing right so they can continue the riding time.
8. Be patient. When young horses act out, it’s usually because they don’t understand. If you react to this with escalating pressure or demands, they’ll learn to resent you. Give them the time they need to figure out what you are asking before you punish them for confusion or move on to another lesson.
9. Appreciate the smallest attempts to respond to your requests. Don’t expect the horse to be perfect the first time. If you’re asking him to move forward and he takes a step, recognize and praise the effort. If you’re working on steering and he turns his head or moves off your leg for a moment, stop pushing and give him a reward and a break.
10. Strive for fun. If you make training something your horse anticipates with joy, you’ll have a ball. As you work with your young horse each day, remember that anything you do to make his job interesting, engaging and enjoyable will encourage him to want to please you and come running when you call. Include him in the process and you’ll be awestruck by his eagerness to learn and perform.

Do you cringe when you see what some people do to young equine minds? You will. Common sense should prevail when a horse starts acting out to be heard so dramatically he becomes dangerous, but sadly, it doesn’t in many cases. Usually it’s ego or ignorance that that leads to such stupidity, and unfortunately, it’s the horse that suffers (and future owners who must undo the damage).

Horse training done wrong

Recently a gal was staying at Halcyon Acres (when Hyde showed up in this Jeckle it was clear goodbye was the best response) who ultimately revealed she viewed animals as possessions to be neglected and then punished when they became confused about intense intermittent demands. The occasional time she was able to wrestle away from her self-proclaimed busy life to devote to ‘training’ was fleeting, cruel and unappreciative. Regrettably, her self-centered perspective seems to be more the norm in our youth today than the exception. If this is representative of the new generation of ‘adults’ we’ll be seeing coming into this world, we’re in trouble – and so are the horses.

So, if you want to know what creates a fearful, miserable, uncooperative and leery horse, let her behavior be a lesson for you.

Teaching a young horse to misbehave

Watching this ‘horse breaker’ in the round pen one day with a two-year-old Thoroughbred that was starting under saddle was frightening. The trench that recently appeared around the perimeter should have been a signal that one of her ‘methods’ included chasing the horse to exhaustion.  Join-up precepts aside (and there’s a lot about embracing a process to create a submissive horse that should be questioned by those who want a horse that’s engaged and enthused), it’s hard to see how ‘sending’ a horse until he’s wobbly-legged helps create a solid and safe steed. This little gelding already had some trust issues and while making him too tired to react might seem like an effective approach – it wasn’t.

The moment of truth occurred after she hopped aboard. It wasn’t enough to go for a quick win when the horse complied with her demands and gave the wanted response ten minutes into the lesson. She had to extend it for another hour or so and end on a ‘lose’ (it was the horse’s fault, of course) because she had family watching and waiting for dinner.

By the time the ‘lesson’ was over, the confused and unappreciated equine (he tried, but his efforts were met with escalating demands instead of recognition for his kindness – funny how that seems to extend to people interactions with this youth too) was so frustrated, bewildered and fearful, his instincts told him to react with avoidance tactics.

During the combat hour, the horse reared, tried to flip, attempted to rub her off on the fence boards and crashed through the round pen after she hopped off and continued to punish him for ‘misbehaving.’ She escalated the conflict by failing to recognize and reward correct responses, ratcheting up the punishment with hands, legs and then a stick with no praise for his efforts while pushing this young mind way too far to be able to process or comprehend what he was being asked to do.

Horse head cases are usually created

He’ll be a head case for the rest of his life if this approach continues. Of course, he’ll be blamed for bad behavior even though the early under saddle conditioning taught him to distrust and dislike humans.  It’s funny how quickly horses who aren’t given a chance to be heard get labelled ‘bad actors’ when they apply and act on what they’ve been taught.

Great equine performers contribute to the conversation

Some horses will shut down and comply with such methods once tortured enough to decide it’s easier to simply tune out and acquiesce.  Rarely will such tactics encourage a horse to excel in people requested disciplines. Others become dangerous in their effort to avoid pain, misery and a human species they have been conditioned to hate. Sure, usually with the right breed (TBs are tougher), you can intimidate and force a horse to comply with your demands by teaching him to be submissive and compliant, but don’t expect him to like it – or give you the extra effort to make your relationship and performance achievements special.

Young minds (and older ones too – even the bipeds) need to be given the chance to be heard, recognized, appreciated and understood. Make it all about you and you may get a compliant horse – but not a happy one. Partnerships need give and take. Few thrive with dominance. Think about how you respond to a person who keeps demanding more without appreciating what you’ve already given. Imagine how the young horse might interpret such actions. The next time you decide you’re going to ‘teach your horse a lesson,’ think about how he may perceive your actions. Is that going to help you get to where you want to go?

Please share you stories and comments below. Thanks.

Horse Quick Tips

Whether you are a novice or professional, there’s a lot the horse you are working with can teach you about communications. Keep it safe, fun, engaging and interesting for both of you and you’ll be amazed at how much more effective short and collaborative lessons can be than long sessions you dictate alone. Below are some tips for drawing out your horse and making the process easier and safer for you as you begin the challenge of preparing your horse for tack and a rider while you forge a foundation for an exciting human equine/partnership that encourages performance beyond expectations.

1. Stay away from formula approaches – customize a program – and each day – to respond to the horse’s proclivities with collaborate strategies (listen to your horse) designed to move forward vs. get you stuck in combative behavior.
2. Know your horse – recognize her moods and be ready to alter the day’s plan to strive for a good and quick end to the lesson. Choose approaches that your horse can understand and enjoy given his particular issues and personality.
3. There’s no such thing as too much ground work – the more you do prior to hopping aboard to gain the confidence, trust, understanding and cooperation of your horse before you begin to ride him, the easier this next phase will be for both of you.
4. Limit time in the round pen – drilling or exhausting a horse in a small circular pen will not only lead to frustration and boredom, but can also create permanent soundness issues.
5. Hit the trails – hills, varied terrain, wildlife, water and interesting scenery provide a great venue for building the confidence, trust and dependability of a young equine. This can be a wonderful early training approach once you have basic stop, steering and go cues understood.
6. Go it alone – while company can be an easy early training crutch, this tends to create a horse focused on other equines for direction and confidence, taking the focus off you. This can lead to later challenges with barn sour or herd bound behavior.
7. Patience and kindness trump egocentric demands – most horses will react better to someone who offers the time and understanding to process requests, responding to horse feedback over one who bullies them into compliance.
8. End quickly and on a good note – it’s best to keep early lessons brief (both on the ground and under saddle) in a way that encourages the horse to follow requests, rewards them for their effort and ends with a quick win prior to pushing the horse too hard toward frustration.
9. Belly over a horse for the first day or two – this keeps you safe and delays the added concern of you towering over the horse’s head (instinct can cause the horse to view you as a predator in this position). Getting your young horse used to carrying weight at a standstill and walking off with a moving load (many horses will react more dramatically to a person on their backs once they start moving than when they are still) in a way that is less threatening and easy for you to dismount unencumbered can ease the horse into harder lessons and save the time required to settle a horse that’s been traumatized.
10. Get them away from the herd – you want to set the stage for your young horse to view training time with his focus on you. This can be tougher if the herd is in sight. Find a place on your property (or move the other horses into the barn or further away from your working area) where you can reduce the distraction buddies provide.
11. Establish a training area that’s designated for work – don’t use the pasture you turn your horse out in as an arena for training. Conversely, don’t use your work area for recreation. Horses seem to appreciate a specified area that allows them to relax and another that signifies it’s time for your job.
12. Try to stick to a schedule – horses thrive best (because they’re most comfortable) with a routine that they can expect and embrace. Pick a time to train and try to stay consistent. If you make training fun, you’ll find your mount waiting at the gate excited about the expected training lesson.
13. Discover what your horse enjoys most – use this as a reward (try to avoid the temptation to offer treats for tricks) as praise for good work or an activity to end a session.
14. Show your horse you care enough to return the respect – respect goes both ways and that means you need to be able to show your horse you hear him, even if you don’t agree. Give him the courtesy of listening and acknowledging before you levy demands.#
15. Enjoy the ride – if you work toward trust and understanding in early lessons as you customize strategies to reach your horse in ways he understands and appreciates, you’ll be shocked at what he’ll do in return to please and protect you. Sometimes just a simple acknowledgement of the horse’s perspective can turn a frightened, frustrated or belligerent horse into a steed excited about pleasing and exceeding expectations. Pause the next time you have a ‘failure to communicate’ with your horse and consider the possibility he simply doesn’t understand. Corrections are fine when warranted, but most are too quick to blame the horse. Most equines will embrace your request if posed in a way that makes sense to them. Horses allowed to contribute to solutions will make you proud. Respect goes both ways.

Friday’s Opinion

It seems the older I get, the more I’m inclined to ask the horse how he wants to proceed. Years ago, I’d relish the opportunity to engage a horse in a battle of wills that demonstrated my mettle and glue.  Granted, it’s hard to know how much of my collaborative approach comes from the wisdom of age, or the pain of aging injuries borne from younger and dumber years, but I have found the changes in my technique over the years seem to make training a lot more fun for the horse.

Of course, there’s the occasional alpha that’s already had a good deal of mileage schooling humans who chose to confront them with demands vs. understanding that requires staying power and athleticism, but most horses will choose to be agreeable if you listen to their concerns, spend the time required to ease them into new lessons and fortify your riding time with ground work.

Short is better with early horse training

One of the things I’ve learned when it comes to starting horses under saddle (or working through issues that have developed as a result of an initial bad start) is brief is best when it comes to the duration of lessons.

Sadly, most seem to feel the more time you spend riding a young horse (or, even worse, round penning him to exhaustion in preparation for carrying a mount), the faster he will learn. It upsets me to see people pushing young equine minds past engagement and enjoyment toward a resentful and frustrated state of resistance – or a mindless submissive obedience trance.

Ten to fifteen minutes of training time seems to be the sweet spot for most young horses being introduced to a rider (and this includes ground work done in preparation for this moment too). Usually this can be an easy goal to reach if you spend enough time getting to know your horse so you can gauge his mood, choose lessons that will appeal to him and quit after a request is met. Sure, there are horses and days when your quick lesson plan turns into hours of persistence when wilfulness and attitude surfaces, but these are rare situations once you learn to hear the horse.

Some horses respond better to daily lessons; others need days to absorb what they learned so they can start the next training session ready to progress. Professional trainers and novices who try to make every horse fit into their formula training regimen create unnecessary roadblocks to building a happy partnership and an eager performer. The learning process accelerates exponentially when you customize your plans to respond to the horse’s input. Done right, this reduces the time in the saddle and makes each session a fun and collaborative game for the horse (this doesn’t mean you allow the horse to do whatever he wants – but does require a process that shows you are listening to what he is trying to tell you). Babies just don’t have the mind or body to handle hour-long drill sessions. If you can make each day fun, easy and rewarding for both of you, your horse will come to relish the opportunity to work and you’ll be amazed at how eager he is to learn and please as a result.

Longer prep time leads to better equine performers

I cringe when I hear people boast they “broke a horse in seven days.” These horses fear new situations, don’t trust people and expect every new experience to be traumatic. Who can blame them? Or, with some of the colder breeds, they’ve had their heart yanked out and have succumb to a life of submission and servitude.

Common sense should say that early preparation done patiently and thoroughly makes for an easier and better horse when performance training begins – but that doesn’t seem to prevail with many focused on the clock or calendar.

If you start the training of a young horse with the aim of building trust and rapport, most will strive to please you with responses that exceed your expectations. They also handle new situations with a confidence and interest that you don’t get from a horse that has been rushed or forced. Whether you’re a trainer seeking to put the basics under a horse as quickly as possible to please your client with your speed or a novice following a rote agenda prescribed by someone who’s never even seen your horse, you’re missing out on rewarding opportunities to engage and excite your project. If working with a horse that loves to train doesn’t grab you, you’re also putting early barriers in place for the horse to be the best he can be in the future.

It’s not a matter of losing a few weeks’ time with a slow and easy initial approach, but instead, a method that saves you months or years of time and sometimes a lifetime of frustration for you and/or the horse when you adopt a training approach that incorporates the horse’s particular penchants and responds to his expressed issues. Of course, you can’t get there if you don’t consider the horse as a participant in the process and allow him to give input.

How long is too long with a horse?

If you’re staring a young horse under saddle and he’s done what you first asked then becomes belligerent with subsequent requests, the lesson went on too long. Don’t be tempted to push harder because you’re having a good day (or a bad one and you just want to turn that screw a little further once he’s answered your initial request because you want to establish who’s boss).  Take the win and quit early, knowing you’ll have a willing and responsive horse tomorrow for giving him immediate credit for his efforts.

Foundation work for horses intended to be great performers takes time. A quick early start usually leads to problems later. No horse should be expected to be ready to start career training in a day – or a month. If you’ve spent 60 days with a horse, however, and are getting nowhere, that’s a bad sign. In fact, if you spend a few weeks with a horse and aren’t making any progress, you should probably look for another who may be more adept at reaching the horse. Each horse is different and some come with issues, are slow learners or cannot adapt to your style. Most, though, won’t be able to retain what you’ve taught them with comfort, confidence and the understanding to move on to more refined training demands in much less than a couple of months.  Rush them in the early starting training and you’ll usually pay later.

Make horse training fun

I’ve had a ton of fun lately having the luxury of letting the sport horse farm-bred horses tell me when they’re ready to start training and taking a leisurely approach to lesson frequency and demands. This is rarely an option with client horses, but it’s been a great learning experience to watch how this has played out with the herd. It’s been amazing to see how eager and interested these horses are when training begins when they say they’re ready and are allowed to express how frequently they’d like to train. In fact, all the young stock (along with the older horses in career training) are so eager to train, they express their annoyance with my busy schedule and associated inability to train them all daily. It’s a competition each day at the gate as to who gets the call. The chosen ones are eager to perform and learn and often ask to continue the lesson after its intended end. I’m having a ball working with horses that relish training so much they are determined to progress faster than asked. They seem to appreciate the fact that I’ll skip training plans on a horse if she doesn’t seem eager to come in.

If your horse (or horses) aren’t eager to see you coming and excited about the opportunity to work, you’re probably making the lessons too long, too structured, too demanding, too formula or too about you. Once you start responding to your horse’s requests, you’ll be floored by how eagerly they comply with yours. Try it. And let me know how it goes.

If you have a challenge with a current horse you’re starting under saddle, have questions about young horse issues, ideas to add to help others starting a young horse or want to shout about one of your proud successes, please comment below. Thanks.

This 16.2 HH TB gelding is happy to lower his head and safely share the love of an assisted living resident without the need for "my space, your space" training.

Friday’s Opinion

It’s troubling to see so much being put out there offering formula approaches to reach every horse. The latest mantra seems to be “respect my space” and is often used as an excuse to dominate a horse into submission. This is especially prevalent among novices, who spout the term with conviction, nod in agreement to the need, yet fail to really understand what they are doing to the horse. Sadly, they’re getting this belief from some self-proclaimed professionals. Novices are sponges when it comes to learning, and I think we need to get a better message out there to ensure future happiness – and safety – for horses and their human handlers.

Do you really want to teach a horse to learn through fear, exhaustion or pain to surrender to you? Wouldn’t it be better for both horse and human if space was shared and respect was mutual?

Sure, there’s a time and a place to send a horse off, curtail rude behavior or demand compliance, but for the truly happy partnerships, this is rare.

Smart horses with heart make the greatest competitors if allowed to chip in to the team effort (although they’re certainly not the best mounts for novice riders). Given the opportunity to contribute to the conversation and goal, these horses will outperform more able equines on heart alone. They’ll also turn into eager pleasers once introduced to a human they can respect on their terms. Sadly, the respect conviction some hold, practice and promote that encourages an “alpha” persona (another misunderstood concept see http://horsesenseandcents.com/blog/559/alpha-mares-how-do-you-define-them/ ) can rob these horses of their spirit as they are demanded to conform to a process that doesn’t consider their input.

Additionally, young horses in particular (now often in novice’s hands) need to be heard, understood and considered individually in training regimens. Putting rote boundaries in place to teach the horse to avoid you until called doesn’t give him a lot of confidence (in himself or you) during the learning process. Some horses are timid, frightened or leery.  Such horses usually thrive when offered a kind, helpful and patient approach “in your space.” Using formula programs that discipline him for having the courage to approach you is counterproductive if the aim is a well-adjusted horse.

Those of you who follow this blog know we had a group from an assisted living facility visiting the herd at Halcyon Acres this month (see http://horsesenseandcents.com/blog/645/therapeutic-horses-can-merely-be-happy-ones/). None of these horses have been programmed to “respect” an invisible perimeter around people. It’s a good thing too, because the experience for these residents would have been far less rewarding – and probably more dangerous.

Three-year-old TB taking care of a first-time, tiny rider in 30 MPH winds - no "respect" training here, just early work to encourage rapport and cooperation.

Instead, these horses are all asked to follow a few simple rules (get along or you’re out of the herd; go into your proper stall without a lead when you’re brought into the barn; no biting, kicking or aggression toward humans; I decide who’s coming in first – and last; and a few other basic requests to help keep all safe and farm operations running smoothly). They’re allowed to be friendly and sociable with humans, and relish the opportunity to approach known and unknown people for a pet and a visit. Of course, each gets customized training in ground work and under saddle training and because they are offered a say in the process, they are eager to have a job to do and choose to watch for and respect requests. Consequently, they can be trusted to be smart, safe and responsive when any human comes into the mix. It’s not about dictating compliance – it’s a mutual trust and understanding that develops from two-way communications.

I have to say, I don’t get this “my space, your space” approach. Of course, there’s a lot to body language with horses and with this arsenal, you can usually put a horse just about anywhere you want. So, it’s hard for me to see why training a horse to avoid you makes any sense at all. I certainly haven’t encountered a horse (at least not yet) that shines when respect is a one-way street. For me, I’d rather encourage horses (both client and farm-owned) to join the conversation and tell me how to make the experience fun, exciting and engaging for them. If that means the herd expresses their excitement at training time and jockeys for position to be first in line, I’m OK with that. In fact, it’s rewarding to have horses that not only enjoy training, but also anticipate the joy to the point they’re competing for the attention. If all were forced to succumb to a formula approach and were “trained” to “respect my space,” I don’t imagine they’d be so eager to saddle up.  Different strokes, I guess.

1. Keep to a routine with training, feeding, turn-out and handling. Horses will be more comfortable and cooperative if you help them by adhering to a schedule.
2. Have a young horse that’s started asserting himself with a refusal to come in at night (or in the morning during bug season)? Call his bluff and leave him out – alone. Ensure he has ample hay and water, but withhold grain until he decides it’s time to be led to the barn for a meal. It’s amazing how quickly this trick works with most cocky youngsters coming of age. Most decide to run to the gate when they see you the next time.
3. Are you dealing with a horse that’s aggressive with the herd and now tries to control you by refusing to be caught? Send her away (this works particularly well when you’ve given hay to the herd) and don’t let her near the other horses. Often, in a matter of minutes, she’ll be begging for you to let her come to you. In fact, this technique is quite effective with most horses. The key is not to approach them – keep driving them away from you until they decide to ask for relief.
4. Call horses by name. Granted, most of the equine scholars cite studies indicating auditory cues are unnatural for horses, but we haven’t found that to be the case with our herd. If we need help managing others in the pasture, we have a few go-to-gals that will gallop to our location when they hear their name. This works well too if you’re trying to cull a particular horse out of the pasture and seek to avoid a group charge to the gate.
5. Use the lead mare to help direct the herd. This isn’t necessary the one most would classify as the alpha (aggressive and hostile with the herd), but, instead, the one you see all others following. Moving horses to another location, bringing them to the barn, or catching a selected equine is a lot easier once you have the lead horse in hand.
6. Loose horse? Grab another to lead them home. Whether on their back or in hand, often simply grabbing another herd member to lure one who refuses to be caught back to the barn or pasture is the easiest solution.
7. Call on the herd to correct bad behavior. Often, it’s easier to let horses school or guide a bad actor. Whether you use others to discipline or serve as an example, getting creative in how you exploit your equines to help address a challenge can save a lot of time and headaches. When you’re dealing with an obnoxious, arrogant horse, sometimes merely moving them to a herd that knocks them down a few pegs will resolve any prior poor attitude, including trouble catching the horse. Once a young, cocky colt has spent a few days with some older boys – or a pregnant mare – you’ll be amazed how happy they are to come to you with a much more humble demeanor.
8. Reward your horse for coming to you. Find a spot where he enjoys being rubbed, give him a few minutes of grazing on lush grass, use your voice to express appreciation or find something your horse really enjoys (preferably not something that turns him into Pavlov’s proof positive that we should be producing canine equines) to recognize his effort in a way he appreciates and can note your pleasure.
9. Make training fun for the horse so he wants to be engaged. If you listen to your horse and ensure lessons are interesting and rewarding for both of you, your horse will likely be eager to see you and go for a ride.

If you’ve been around horses for a while you’ve probably encountered one that decides he’s not interested in being caught. Interestingly, as I’ve moved more toward a natural herd environment, those chosen for riding activities are the most eager to come in (honestly, this isn’t a reaction I expected, but one I do appreciate). Still, even those not engaged in training routines need to be captured periodically for vet calls, trimming, worming, doctoring and other general maintenance demands. Whether it’s a riding horse that is playing hard to get or a retiree that has you spending hours horse chasing when you need to handle him, stop the frustration with some easy ideas to encourage them to come running.

Keep a routine

It’s always easiest on horses and humans if you maintain a routine. Feed at the same times each day, train at a consistent hour when possible, turn-out and bring into the barn on a schedule and keep your horse comfortable with a timetable he can count on. It’s amazing how a simple change in normal activity times can upset an entire herd and make catching a chore. Similarly, if your horse can’t learn to expect you at regular times, he’s more likely to avoid you when you approach.

Educating young horses

Sometimes the young horses that come to Halcyon Acres™ to be started under saddle chose to be difficult about coming when called. Many are not accustomed to turn-out and/or have been taught handling involves a chase and capture. Others are stressed from being in a new environment with a different routine. A few have had virtually no human contact and/or hostile handling and are fearful. Usually we can find an ideal buddy to help guide a new arrival.

For those who simply refuse to cooperate, we don’t chase them or bribe them with treats. We go to the gate at feed time and encourage the horses to come. Most will follow the lead of their chosen pasture companion – one familiar with the farm and associate routines.

For the few who seem to delight in the ‘see-if-you-can-catch-me’ game, we don’t play. These horses are given three opportunities to come to the gate for stall comforts and dinner. One with the companion horse; a second after the rest of the herd is brought in; and a final offer after all are fed. If they don’t want to come, they’re not forced. They’re given ample water and hay, but no grain and no companionship until they choose to come to the gate and be led to the barn. Most change their mind about their freedom quest after their first night spent outside alone. Some take a few days. It’s important not to chase these horses or threaten them in anyway. Just ask for their approach and if they’re not interested, walk away.

Alphas and other controlling horses

We have a mare at the farm that is extremely aggressive with the herd during feed time. She’s also decided of late to refuse to be caught for periodic maintenance activities. Interestingly, when she’s in training, she fights with the herd to be first to be haltered, but it will be a couple more weeks before we can fit her into the schedule. With an eight-foot cotton lead rope, we’ve stopped this attitude on a matter of minutes on every occasion (this is particularly effective at feed time). Basically we send her away and do not allow her to have access to any of the herd members (or the hay piles) until she asks to be caught. Body language is important too, but it works like a charm.

We had one horse in here for starting under saddle training (he was a colt that clearly didn’t need the ball baggage) that periodically refused to be caught. It was actually a funny scene to watch. He had been schooled at liberty in a 60-foot diameter roundpen. He’d run from his catcher, get sent away and would circle around the human relegated to retrieve him the exact perimeter distance of the roundpen, no matter the size of the pasture – always at a cadenced jog. This became part of the training routine – he’d see the human and start his circle. After about ten minutes, he’d approach and follow the handler into the barn. You didn’t even need a lead rope for him to follow.

Loose horse? Grab another steed to lure them home

Invariably, if you have enough horses you’re moving around, considerable land to traverse and that clever mare who’s figured out how to open every gate, stall door and latch you’ve installed to flummox her – to no avail – you’ll find yourself dealing with the challenge of escaped equines. Grain works sometimes to lure them, but generally grabbing a horse that others will follow is a quicker, easier and more effective solution.

Usually, it doesn’t matter if you’re on their backs or have them on a lead, but we did experience one situation where saddled proved necessary. We had two recently weaned foals break out of their paddock at dusk then headed for the back 100-plus acres at a breakneck pace. The challenge of getting them home proved akin to herding cats. We discovered our lead pony mare would have been a great cow horse as she jumped in to help with moves that would have been the envy of anyone witnessing a team penning competition. It was dark before we got them home, but once this gal realized the job requested, no riding cues were necessary for her to crouch, bounce, block and herd these two rollicking brats determined to head for the hills. Cool horse – this was all done with a halter and lead rope on one side of her neck because we were in too much of a hurry to tack.

Communicate with your horse with his concerns in mind

If you have an older horse that doesn’t want to come to you when you go to the paddock or pasture, think about what you may be doing during training or handling that makes him resent it. Try to add some fun activities for the horse in all your encounters, whether you’re riding him or not. Most horses relish training that is responsive and engaging. Maybe he’s ill. Is he hurting and turning sour? It’s not always appropriate (in fact, rarely so) to blame the horse. Think about what you can do to make training happy time.

Show you appreciate him coming to you. Sometimes this can be simply vibes (horses are more perceptive than most give them credit for), but can include a scratch on his favorite spot, a few moments of lush grass grazing or time doing what you’ve discovered he enjoys.

Think about why your horse may not run to you when he sees you. If he’s avoiding you, there’s probably a good reason – in his mind, anyway. You’ll enjoy your horse a lot more if he’s happy when you’re together. Figure out what he likes and you’ll likely have him chasing you to spend time together.

Friday’s Opinion

“A gun gives you the body, not the bird.” -Henry David Thoreau, naturalist and author (1817-1862)

Getting a horse to do what you want is usually a pretty easy task. Most horses succumb to treats, threats, routine or demands if they understand your message. Still, there’s a difference between compliance and engagement. Today, there are a lot of training systems being touted as universal. Sadly, when template solutions are applied without regard to the particular horse’s needs, they tend to diminish the equine soul. Do you want a horse that responds to your demands, or a partner that is ready, eager and able to jump in and protect you when you face trouble or err? If your goal is building a partnership, consider how you can make your horse feel a part of the team.

Is it really a good thing to have a horse licking and chewing prior to turning on the training juice?

Kudos must go to those who have spent time with wild herds and offered to share their observations and experiences. They’ve given us valuable information to apply as we interact with our horses.

Domesticated equines, however, seem to have a different dynamic than those born free – at least when it comes to rapport building with humans and horses. Certainly, it’s valuable and useful to look at what others have learned from integrating with wild herds, but what seems to be missing from these teachings and lessons is the realization that each horse is different in how he learns and responds to human interaction. Sure, you can model training around creating a submissive horse that will respond to you demands, but is that the best way to develop outstanding team-players and performers?

The most respected domesticated alpha mare seems to earn a following with an understanding, protective and fair approach through a calm confidence that earns vs. demands respect.
It’s a rare moment when she asserts her prowess – usually done only to intervene if another is being victimized or to respond definitively when being attacked – as kindness and wisdom is her norm. Those that rule by violence and or intimidation and achieve submission get their way when it comes to first dibs on feed and water, but they’re avoided, usually feared and rarely followed.

This begs the question – what kind of horse do you want to develop? Sure, you can gain compliance with techniques designed to present you as an inflexible, hostile, demanding alpha – but do you really want to train your horse to drearily accept your demands? Wouldn’t it be better to foster a relationship that responds to the horse’s indicated needs and learning preferences? It might take a little more time, but the associated mutual respect you build will last for the lifetime of your equine partnership.

I see young foals licking and chewing when they approach some of the older horses in the herd (certainly not all – it’s the aggressive ones they feel a need to placate), but don’t see this from horses after they reach a year or two of maturity. Of course, one of my rules for permanent tenants here is that they get with the program – and part of that includes getting along with the gang. So, if a new member decides to be unnecessarily violent and the herd isn’t able to force a behaviorial correction, this critter is the last to be brought in from the paddock and the last to go out. If that doesn’t send the message and they continue to harass unnecessarily, they’re provided walking papers. It’s a rare equine that doesn’t get the message and come around quickly between the herd help and the human ‘alpha’ component.

Dominating trainers will sometimes prevail

Granted, some seem to go too far in the horse consciousness mantra, but those who continue to see violence, pain and domination as a good way to create willing and effective equine performers hit the other extreme. There’s a big difference between standing your ground and getting a horse to comply through fear, pain or immobilization.

Sadly, some who see horses as an animal to be conquered and beaten into submission are successful equine professionals. Some horses will succumb to mean handling and go on to be standout performers. Of course, this begs the question, how special could they have been if handled with kindness and understanding?

Do you click to deliver equine treats?

Few horses wag their tails in anticipation of a food reward. Most will, however, learn to do your bidding once conditioned to expect a treat for a trick. Sure, this provides a quick and easy way to ‘train’ your horse to ‘perform,’ but at what cost?

Domesticated dogs seem to relish the idea of begging for food, but horses tend to prefer to choose to bond with a human that offers some understanding and allows the horse to decide they’ve earned respect. Personally, I’ve found there’s few greater rewards than those that come from allowing a horse to be heard and understood in a way that makes them part of the conversation and associated training decisions. I’m not suggesting letting the horse walk all over you (far from it – few horses respect a push-over, let alone one who defers the decision making to the horse due to fear), but, instead, an approach where the human is steadfast, yet observant enough to respond to what the horse is trying to tell him. Sometimes, with the more challenging cases, the message may be ‘I’ve been taught to hate humans and want to hurt you,’ but even with those extreme scenarios, treats and clicks may gain compliance, but they won’t create a partnership that’s reciprocal. You need to decide if you want to ‘break’ a horse or ‘find’ him.

Do you want to really hear your horse?

There are a lot of books, DVDs, television programs and clinics that boast a method that will work for all horses and all people – if you do it right (experience a failure and it’s your onus).  What I’ve found in working with various horses over the years (and sure, I’ve logged a lot of mistakes along the way), is that the best training approach for every equine is customized. Some horses are timid. Others are scared, confused, frustrated, bored – whatever. It seems the majority that come to Halcyon Acres deemed dangerous are merely alphas that have either been permitted to rule by intimidation and/or misunderstood. In each case, spending time on the ground getting to know the horse and building a rapport pays huge dividends once you hop in the saddle. It’s important to try to recognize the issues your horse may be carrying as baggage from prior experiences along with developing a keen eye for concerns and issues he may be facing. Be a firm, kind, confident and responsive leader and you’ll find your horse may surprise you with how talented he can be once appreciated as an individual and given the opportunity to express his penchants.

The next time you feel the need to preach to another (or your horse) a proven method that is universal, consider hearing what your horse may be trying to tell you. Listen a little bit and you may find a gem you never imagined.

You can possess the horse fully – but do you want just a body with an empty heart? Some like trophies that allow them to boast dominating accomplishments. Those who strive for horsemanship, however, understand the greatness that can come from encouraging and engaging the personality of the particular horse with approaches that let him live fully and individually with a human partner that listens and understands.